Kochi

Udon often plays second fiddle to ramen in Los Angeles, but this excellent specialist along a busy stretch of La Cienega Boulevard has brought high-quality, springy noodles to much of Central L.A. You can’t go wrong with Kochi’s traditional dashi broths, though we’re also partial to the creamy versions seasoned with salted cod roe or fresh sea urchin. Either way, the noodles here more than hold a candle to more well-established udon shops like Little Tokyo’s Marugame Monzo and Sawtelle’s Marugame Udon. Rice bowls and standard appetizers like tempura, chicken karaage and miso soup are tasty as well—and since portions here run moderate in size, you’d do well to add a little extra to your order.