Isaan Station

If we were to play a game of “Duck, Duck, Goose” in Koreatown, Isaan Station would inevitably be the goose. Porapat Neungjumrong’s northern Thai restaurant so clearly stands out in a sea of its Korean neighbors. The modern space in the Western Avenue plaza includes one room with plaid booths and banquettes, and a second with a large communal table, both group-friendly options. The food nods toward Isaan, a region in northeast Thailand known for its fiery dishes. Dishes like kaemg khew ($9.95), a chicken and bamboo shoot salad soaked in green curry, seems to pack extra punch, while dtub waan ($7.95) cranks up the funk with pork liver bathed a piquant sauce of red onion, lime, rice powder and mint.