From the sidestreet entrance on Purdue Avenue, Il Moro looks tiny, but it widens into a modern, comfortable space with a wonderful terrace. Host Gaetano Foiano sets out the most beautiful happy-hour appetizers in town, while the chef delves into more obscure Italian village recipes: poison ivy berry risotto, for example, or dishes with wild boar, elk, rabbit and other exotic items. Although it's tempting, don't eat so much that you have no room for the showstopping desserts.
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