The food is good, but that's not actually the reason why most people come here: along with Mastro's Steakhouse (246 N Canon Drive, 310-888-8782, www.mastrosteakhouse.com) and the fabled Polo Lounge at the Beverly Hills Hotel, this is Hollywood power-lunch central. Even though the restaurant has only been here since the 1980s, it already feels like an old-money hangout. Order a steak or crab Louie, gawk at the stars, and enjoy being pampered by consummate professionals who treat everybody like they're somebody.
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