Gjelina

No matter how you cut it, this longtime Abbot Kinney staple is probably the one restaurant that started the street's full-tilt shift into gentrification and ensuing mainstream cultural significance. Whether you love or hate it, Gjelina has its disciplines, and for good reason. Even in the dead of winter, the seasonally focused menu, eaten alongside a mix of tourists, locals and influencers, can’t help but bring in the sunshine. Founding chef Travis Lett has long since departed the kitchen—you can find him cooking at RVR, an izakaya located down the street—but current management has maintained the quality, consistency and seasonality of cooking that Gjelina is well-known for. On my most recent visit, the Weiser potatoes and orange-glazed rainbow carrots with yogurt and chermoula were as delicious as ever. The ever-present anchovy pizza and orecchiette with beef cheek bolognese were equally great. Whether you're stopping by in the morning or after dark, the restaurant delivers a great meal