At most taco joints, plant-based fillings are typically limited to mushrooms or nopales. Both are acceptable, if not entirely texturally fulfilling, options. For a truly impressive array of vegan tacos, head to El Cocinero in Van Nuys. The no-frills strip mall joint uses jackfruit and a handful of old-school soy products to successfully imitate the crunch of chicharrón, the pull-apart nature of carnitas and even the juicy chewiness inherent to al pastor. Pile your choice of plant-based protein into tacos, a burrito or even a basket of nachos topped with vegan cheese. A newer quesabirria taco made with jackfruit offers the same spicy, rich flavors of traditional birria without any of the meat, plus an excellent consommé on the side. Our only complaint? The slightly limited hours—El Cocinero only opens from 1pm to 8pm, Tuesday through Sunday.
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