Like its Italian sibling across the street, Bar Etoile walks a fine line between wine bar and restaurant. Unlike Étra, however, this French-ish eatery in East Hollywood offers much more than just vibes; head chef Travis Hayden, formerly of Voodoo Vin, serves a delicious bistro-inspired menu that sticks the landing from start to finish. While the fare doesn’t reinvent the wheel, I loved the savory Gruyere tart, Caesar-inspired steak tartare and the homey polenta topped with braised leeks and fried sunchokes. The cocktails are well-made, and there’s also an excellent selection of wines by the glass. Yes, the flatware is from Sabre, and the immaculately designed space includes a gorgeous centerpiece bar, baby blue booths and café-style tables—but don’t let the high-falutin’ design job fool you into thinking Bar Etoile has nothing to offer but eye candy: It’s a great spot for a thoughtfully constructed meal.
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