Beau Laughlin and Jay Milliken have already made their mark on a block of prime Silver Lake real estate, but Thursday, they’re setting their sights on a new neighborhood with Atrium, their sprawling new Los Feliz restaurant.
The high-ceilinged, indoor-outdoor concept is the latest from the team behind Sunset Boulevard’s Kettle Black, Sawyer and Scout, landing along a busy stretch of Vermont Avenue. The 3,200-square-foot space, once home to a theater rehearsal studio, now throws light and shade like no one’s business: Skylights illuminate the wood beams, olive tree, velvet booths and angular seating in the daytime, while at night, the lights on the horseshoe-shaped bar and the bulb lights hanging over the outdoor patio flip on for a moodier setting.
Photograph: Courtesy Atrium/Jakob N. Layman
There’s a glassed-in kitchen behind the bar, allowing a glimpse into executive chef and partner Hunter Pritchett’s dishes, which are by and large informed by his nomadic upbringing. The former Son of a Gun and Melody chef was raised by his continent-crossing family and spent his early years in the Philippines and Malaysia, among other countries; between this and the inspiration from L.A.’s diversity, Atrium’s menu includes Hispanic, Korean, Thai, Vietnamese, Armenian and Middle Eastern nods.
There’s grilled focaccia with kimchi butter; crispy mushrooms with an eel-sauce glaze; carne asada-inspired beef carpaccio; and Hawaiian kanpachi crudo with nuoc cham and passion fruit. Expect dinner service to start, with brunch launching later this fall.
When it comes to drinks, Kettle Black and Sawyer’s Jordan Young is behind both the wine and the cocktail selections, boasting a collection of Old World, California and Oregon vintners—with roughly a dozen wines available by the glass—and cocktails that focus on rare spirits.
The mixed drinks, often featuring local produce, were designed to be “light and fun while evoking conversation,” and run the gamut in style and era: The Shift Drink involves Sichuan-infused tequila with pineapple cordial, amontillado, ginger and lime; the If it Ain’t Broke made includes rye, oloroso sherry and vermouths dry and sweet; Rum Diaries (we see what you did there) include multiple rums, sherry, oolong tea, oleo and clarified milk.
For those who like a bit of something to sip with pastry chef and partner Gregory Baumgartner’s desserts—tahini sorbet or avocado mousse, anyone?—there’s also a handful of amari, sherries, ports and Fernet to close out the meal.
Catch a glimpse of what to expect when Atrium opens on Thursday, then stop by for some uni cacio e pepe yourself:
Photograph: Courtesy Atrium/Jakob N. Layman
Photograph: Courtesy Atrium/Jakob N. Layman
Photograph: Courtesy Atrium/Jakob N. Layman
Photograph: Courtesy Atrium/Jakob N. Layman
Photograph: Courtesy Atrium/Jakob N. Layman
Atrium launches Thursday, October 25, at 1816 1/2 N Vermont Ave, open from 4 to 11pm Sunday to Wednesday, and 4pm to midnight Thursday to Saturday.