Tom Kerridge’s Proper Pub Food

Episode one
Anyone who has seen Tom Kerridge on ‘Great British Menu’ or ‘Saturday Kitchen’ will be aware of his signature culinary style: hearty, no-nonsense gourmet pub grub served with enthusiasm (and extra helpings). This series will follow the trend, beginning with a visit to a Bermondsey market in search of inspiration for pickle and salt beef bagels, where he treats friends and strangers alike to some ‘proper ace’ stews and puddings.

His prompts towards decadence – go on, have another one, and why not use double cream this time? – are genuinely endearing, if not so good for the thighs. Although the Michelin-starred Kerridge’s ‘no-nonsense’ includes adding saffron (‘in weight, more expensive than gold’) to salt fish and a ‘polishing’ of individual carrots to get them really smooth, he looks guilty enough about it to get away with it, the scamp.

Cookery shows come and go, but if one gets you reaching for the pen and paper, then it’s a fair sign of success – and this reviewer was writing down recipes instead of taking notes.