How to feel the hwyl in Wales

Move over hygge, here’s hwyl. A Welsh word without literal translation, it means a feeling of emotional fervour and joy – peaceful or adrenaline-fuelled. You’ll find it’s said and felt by those who live there often in day-to-day life. 

If you’re wondering how to maximise your hwyl exposure, we have the answers for you. From coastal hikes to spa days, quaint castles to modern dining. It’s all here, in this assuming, untouched pocket of south-west Wales. 

Win a dreamy getaway to the Welsh countryside by entering our prize draw below!

Friday evening

Tenby is probably the most well-known destination on this trip. The colourful seaside town is a popular destination for locals and tourists alike, and is a buzzing spot in the summer months. But don't be tricked into thinking it's a seasonal destination, you’ll find yourself having a beautiful time all year round.

In the town itself, there’s a load of independent spots to enjoy. As you’ll arrive later in the day we’d head to Tenby Brewing Co. for independently owned craft beer (and great street food) and then for something similar but different, round the night off at Tap & Tân. 

We'd recommend staying at The Dunes, Tenby, a gorgeous four-star boutique hotel right next to Tenby Golf club, and just a short walk from the town centre. The on-site restaurant has two AA rosettes, so good eating is guaranteed. 

Or if you enter our prize draw, you'll find yourself staying in a chic eco-lodge with a Fforest Nature Spa Experience!

If you’re getting to Wales by car, or even decide to rent one from Carmarthen after getting the train from London Paddington, you could use Tenby as your base the entire time. This would open up more remote exploration, especially along the Pembrokeshire Coast Path (which offers a 186-mile-long walk as well as endless beaches, cliffs and estuaries). If you’re making the most of public transport, however, we’d move on to Narberth. 

Saturday morning 

In the morning, make use of Tenby’s three miles of beaches, known as North, Castle, and South Beach, as well as the harbour. Walking across them is lovely in itself, but it's worth trekking up to a vantage point for prime photography opportunities. From there, stop off at Loafley Bakery & Deli Co. for Welsh cakes prepared freshly on the griddle in front of you (eat them while they’re warm on a bench overlooking the beaches). Then, head on to Narberth, just fifteen minutes by train.  

Saturday afternoon 

The high street in Narberth exemplifies just how fulfilling village life can be, on each side of the street you’ve charming buildings (many are listed) and award-winning shops from butchers to antique dealers. After browsing these, we’d stop off for lunch at either the Spanish deli-cafe Ultracomida or the vegetarian spot, Plumvanilla Cafe.

Then, we’d pop back on the train to Saundersfoot which takes around 15 minutes. Saundersfoot is another coastal town, with a lovely long and flat beach as well as a harbour in which you’ll often find children fishing for crabs. Up on the cliff overlooking such scenery is your accommodation: St Brides Hotel and Spa. The treatments are as good as the views.

Or, if you enter our prize draw, you could end up treating yourself to a Nature Spa Experience at Fforest Farm...

Saturday evening 

Post-pamper, it’s time for culinary hwyl to reach its peak. Lan Y Mor, which overlooks Coppet Hall beach, is a beautiful building, combining wood and glass to make the forest meet the sea in a very Grand Designs sort of way. Inside, the magic only increases. The menu is inclusive but inspired, showcasing Welsh produce at its finest, and a focus on local food. Some of the fish is quite literally from the sea its guests look out onto. 

Sunday morning 

After a nice breakfast at the hotel, if you’re feeling active, you could walk along the beach and then follow the coastal path as far as one of its endpoints, in Amroth, or stop at Wiseman Bridge. From there, it’s a short cab ride to Laugharne. 

Sunday afternoon 

Laugharne is a wonderful, quaint town steeped in literary and Norman history. Spend a couple hours walking around the well-preserved castle (Laugharne Castle, Cadw), walk along the cobbled road and down to the stunning estuary, and follow the path toward Dylan Thomas’ boathouse and writing shed. These are the buildings where the famed poet lived and wrote – you can peep into both, which have been left pretty untouched since his time there. If you want, you can also visit his and Caitlin’s grave, it’s a small unassuming white cross in the graveyard to the right of St Martin’s Church, over a small bridge and toward the top of the site. 

Laugharne also has a great food and drink scene, The Ferryman (also known as Ferrymans Delicatessen) is an ideal spot to pick up provisions for the journey home. 

Sunday evening 

With your hwyl-meter at full, it’s time to leave this still, quaint, beautiful part of the world and head back to the smoke of the city. Carmarthen is thirteen miles from Laugharne and has direct routes to London and Manchester. Keep topped up on this joyous, peaceful feeling with a couple of Welsh cakes alongside a coffee from the train trolley, there is simply no other way. 

Win a weekend away with Visit Wales! 

We’re allowing you to feel the hwyl for yourself with an unforgettable holiday to Wales. Fill out your details below and you’ll be entered into a prize draw where you can win a two-night Nature Spa Experience at Fforest Farm staying in a gorgeous Osen Dome. It's an experience worth £820, with travel expenses (up to the value of £150) on us! so we highly recommend you enter.

Find out more about the land of hwyl here.