Lemongrass, chilli, coconut – these are the smells that fill your nostrils when you step inside Sambal Shiok on Holloway Road. ‘It’s busy, loud and casual,’ says general manager Gabi Cekauskaite. ‘You can see the kitchen, and if you sit outside you feel the buzz of the street. It’s what you’d expect in Malaysia.’
Sambal Shiok was born in 2013, when founder Mandy Yin, who’s Malaysian-born Chinese of Peranakan Nyonya heritage, decided to ditch her career in law and serve up delicious Malaysian food to Londoners instead. Yin began doing pop-ups around the city and her food was a hit. In 2018, she opened her first permanent restaurant on Holloway Road. ‘There was a queue outside for six months,’ Cekauskaite says. ‘One customer, who used to live in Singapore, was never able to find anything like the laksa there in London. When he ate here, he was like: “This is exactly how I remember it.”’ It’s a story that sums up the essence of Sambal Shiok. ‘It’s not all about business,’ says Cekauskaite. ‘People come here and have a laksa because it brings them good memories.’