Things become edgier on the northern side of the Westway. Ladbroke Grove, so gentrified at the Holland Park end, is here lined with late-night shops and fast-food joints, and overlooked by local authority housing, though there are also some handsome houses, long since converted into flats. Portuguese cafés feed a mini expat community, and an indoor market turns the thundering Westway to its advantage. At the area’s northernmost boundary, you’ll find the green oasis of Kensal Green Cemetery (the first of London’s grand Victorian burial grounds) and architect Ernö Goldfinger’s 31-storey Trellick Tower, Grade II*-listed, and a modernist icon.
