Zafferano

Superficially little has changed at this renowned restaurant set in a comparatively quiet corner of Knightsbridge. The dining room, with its bare brick walls, rustic stone flooring and striped banquettes, is a relaxing place and the scent of fresh flowers lifts the spirits. However, longtime head chef Andy Needham has left and the menu has had a minor facelift. Our meal started well with home-made foccacia, salami and parmesan served on a wooden block, followed by a creamy burrata with fresh artichokes and piennolo tomatoes. But the kitchen blew it with a dish of spaghetti and cured pork cheek, so swamped by tomato sauce that it would not look out of place in a school canteen. It was left to a fleshy Cornish cod acqua-pazza (poached in a light broth) served with peas and carrots to save the day. Service is attentive but lacks personality. Prices, especially if you delve into the admirable wine list, are high – as they have always been. However, based on our recent visits, Zafferano has some way to go to rediscover its glory days.