Yoshino

Down a quiet alleyway off Piccadilly, a neon sign announces ‘sushi’. It’s easy to miss even if you’ve been to Yoshino before, so keep your eyes peeled. Like Atariya in Ealing, the secret to this sushi bar’s success over the years has been a guaranteed supply of market-fresh fish; the company is also a seafood supplier. For years, the winning formula here has been a small selection of sushi sets.

The colourful chirashi – topped with shredded nori, mange tout and omelette, as well as the expected sashimi slices – has always been a favourite, and didn’t disappoint on a recent visit. The salmon on our nigiri had silky-smooth flesh that melted in the mouth, and the squid was good quality too. Recently, Yoshino’s repertoire has expanded to include wagyu beef teppanyaki and skewers.

The seating has also been rearranged, with no pews by the sushi counter. Instead, the dimly lit (and slightly down-at-heel) ground floor is dotted with small tables. Head upstairs if you can: the design is minimal, but it’s generally lighter and brighter. Service remains as polite as ever.