Picture an episode of Grand Designs featuring a roomy, converted barn in the Cotswolds. Kevin McCloud skips around the finished space that’s draped with cream linen curtains, lined with metro tiles and featuring some lovingly sanded statement beams, amazed that the Barbour jacket-sporting couple have managed to do it up without divorcing. Wildflowers feels like that barn; all flagstone floors, exposed brick and a warmly-lit open kitchen, lined with bookshelves and adorned with a huge vase of fresh flowers. It is Quite Lovely. Which is to be expected. After all, Wildflowers is in a part of west London where all the shops are named after posh women and sell a variety of useless but gorgeous objects and cardigans made of ethical llama. But don’t let that put you off.
In the kitchen is Aaron Potter, heading up his first solo project following stints as executive chef at west London Italian Maria G’s and head chef at the Michelin-starred Elystan Street. Despite the country cottage-core look of the place, the food is decidedly European, with a casual, non-denominational Mediterranean thing going on.
Grilled sugar pit Iberico pork, with quince, almond and gremolata hits more notes than Mahler’s 8th symphony
We start with snacks of ‘Romeo & Juliets’ – a kind of deluxe take on the pineapple-and-cheese toothpick, with the pineapple replaced by a ritzy nubbin of quince jelly. Then, a creamy ring of sizzling hot moules farcies with garlic and parsley butter, essentially escargots for the squeamish. Gnocco fritto with gorgonzola, speck, and lashings of honey are a little cold for our liking (a bit more heat and the cheese would have oozed in the way cheese needs to ooze) but it’s followed by a stone-cold smash; a hunk of grilled mackerel and sardine bruschetta with perfectly crispy and oily fish, atop a creamy, rich tomato sauce, and somewhere under all of it… bread? A proper stunner. Red prawn carpaccio is rather more delicate, uber pretty and draped with a disco of flavours, from pomegranate to fennel pollen.
Mains are sturdier still. A cast iron pan of cuttlefish and octopus fideua – basically a pasta paella – might be a little one note, but the note is a good one; a classic middle C, say. Everyone likes hearing it, even if they’ve heard it before. Conversely, a divine main of tender, grilled sugar pit Iberico pork, with quince, almond and gremolata hits more notes than Mahler’s 8th symphony, but is equally monumental.
Wildflowers might look all winsome and coy, but there’s a serious, studied intent coming from the kitchen.
The vibe Cottage-core style elegance in a former timber yard in Belgravia.
The food Wide-ranging, immaculately cooked Med-styled cuisine, ranging from Spanish fideua to Italian gnocco fritto.
The drink A ‘nearly dirty’ martini might be one of London’s best takes on the classic cocktail. There’s also an epic wine list.
Time Out tip Make sure you pop upstairs. There’s a breezy, indoor-outdoor al fresco bar with heatlamps and its very own pintxos menu.