What do you think the path to heaven looks like? A cobbled alleyway lined with smiling pals, past and present? A technicolour highway fringed with waving Maneki-neko cats? A cool, alluringly lit staircase filled with bottles of only the nicest wines? Maybe. Just maybe. Because in this new dining space at the top of a pub in Fitzrovia, you’ll find just that, opposite the toilet. Head down the corridor, tipsy, mid-meal, and you’ll feel almost like you’re about to ascend to the promised land.
The charcuterie platter: moreish, every last bit
Much else about this place is dreamy. It helps, of course, that the food is excellent. It’s no surprise when the kitchen is led by chef James Knappett, who’s known for running two Michelin star restaurant Kitchen Table. The food is less fancy chef’s counter diner experience and more top-shelf pub grub. The charcuterie platter: moreish, every last bit. The juniper steelhead smoked trout: an abundance of flavours, perfectly matched. The Cornish lemon sole with brown shrimp and mussels: just the right amount of buttery. The steak tournedos rossini: three layers of brown that don’t look like much but taste formidable, so good in fact that you can almost forgive yourself for accidentally ordering foie gras. Any place that prides itself on serving up ‘the best of British’ is inherently a bit annoying, but these lot smash it.
And these lot, it turns out, are a friendly bunch. And they’re super-attentive to annoying things like a coeliac coming in and saying: can you do this… and this… and this… but totally sans gluten? You’ll feel all the more at home because the main dining room used to be the landlords’ living quarters, and the new owners have retained all manner of original features, from ceiling roses to the gigantic fireplace to elegant Regency windows. As you sip on your first Fitzrovian (the house cocktail, a heady concoction of sherry and sparkling wine), it seems almost as if you’re in heaven – or at the very least, on your way there.
The vibe A prettily decked-out pub restaurant serving up the ‘best of British’ – but not in an annoying way.
The food Flavour-packed meat and fish dishes, generous sides, hearty desserts. The good stuff.
The drink They may be spenny, but boy, are the cocktails worth it. Grab The Fitzrovian or a Smoked Cherry Kir Royale.
Time Out tip Pop to the loo as frequently as etiquette allows. You’re going to want to check out that staircase.