Umu was awarded a Michelin star in 2021
Meaning ‘born of nature’ in Japanese, Umu picked up its first Michelin star in 2005, a year after opening, and its second twinkler a decade later. There’s a spenny kaiseki (essentially an haute cuisine tasting menu) or you can pick and choose off the à la carte. Must-haves include the zingy hand-cut red prawn tartar, delicately sweet-salt-smoke eel kabayake or buttery yellowtail nigiri (the sushi rice is immaculate, fyi). Also memorable: sake-cured Scottish langoustines with tomato jelly and specks of wasabi. It’s flawless.
The vibe is very ‘traditional Kyoto’, with clean lines, glossy woods, super-polite staff and the windows draped in dark linen fabric. Known for being very discreet, it’s a favourite with power brokers in handmade suits. If you don’t have access to an expense account, consider visiting at lunchtime, when you can order one of the more wallet-friendly bento boxes.