Set across two snug, blonde wood floors on the corner of Newburgh Street, Ugly Dumpling is just about cute and quirky enough to live up to that cute, quirky name. A cartoon of a pretty, smiling dumpling decorates the windows, beckoning you in, everything’s very brightly lit and there’s a pop-heavy playlist. It’s fun.
Dumpling-dominated (obvs), the menu is roughly divided between ‘street food classics’ and ‘new favourites’. The best of them, unexpectedly, was a ‘classic’ vegan spinach and tofu number. Filled with fresh spinach and dotted with nutty sesame, this was a juicy little pocket of veg; a warm, umami smack. Also excellent, and more obviously classic, was a prawn gyoza. New favourites were less impressive: salmon, lobster and tarragon confirmed my belief that you should never put salmon in a dumpling: it was unpleasantly rich.
The sides were also good, and again, the best option was meat-free; that being a delicate tempura aubergine with honey and peanuts. Pudding was a low point – suffice to say there is nothing remotely cute about a deep-fried matcha and white chocolate dumpling. Avoid that item, though, and this is a cosy, oh-so-kawaii spot to indulge in that most luscious of Asian snacks.