London’s Wahaca-led Mexican food boom has been ticking over for a decade now. But with the exception of that torchbearer, its DF Mexico spin-off and a smattering of hot little taquerias around town, the capital’s provision of central American food – usually in the bastardised Cali-Mexican vein – is still pretty mediocre, especially for the lunchtime crowd.
Tortilla ain’t gonna change that. The chain is now on its thirty-second outpost, and its homogenous little Russell Square site is as predictable as ever. It’s all objectively fine. A chicken burrito with black beans, a crunchy layer of roasted veg, tomato rice and guac was a weighty pillow of carbs and protein for £6 – you can practically feel the slump coming on as you pile through it.
Corn carnitas tacos, on the other hand, were disappointing, the meat tender but overly wet, the corn tacos dense and a touch claggy.
It’s not terrible, just forgettable fuel for the workday lunch demographic.