There's a traditional, classic look to this restaurant at the St Paul's Hotel in Hammersmith - the kind of look of which fastidious old schoolmasters might approve. That could come in handy, given the hotel is located in a former school, one designed by the architect of the National History Museum, no less.
It was also where Eisenhower, Montgomery and Churchill met to plan the D-Day landings. Had they waited a bit they could have tucked into The Melody's menu of crab lasagne with a crab and ginger bisque, soya and sesame marinated yellow fin tuna, roasted monkfish wrapped in pancetta and braised short rib of beef with horseradish mash and bone marrow gratin.
Thankfully Pol Roger Cuvee Winston Churchill features on the wine list, alongside a selection of wines leaning slightly on the old world. Twelve are available by the glass and carafe.