So, you’re looking to impress but, at the same time, keep it casual. Perhaps we’re talking about a date here. Perhaps it’s dinner with a mate and anything too formal feels weird. Whatever the occasion, you’ve found the answer in the Counter, which Nieves Barragán Mohacho (former exec-chef at the acclaimed Barafina) launched back in 2018. This is the low-key section of Sabor, which is essentially four Spanish venues in one, completed by the fancy El Asador restaurant upstairs, the private dining space La Mesa and a somewhat swish bar. Unlike El Asador, the Counter is walk-ins only. While the full-blown restaurant focuses on mega mains, its cooler sibling is all about the small plates. Think crispy Segovian suckling pig; tiny shrimp with a fried egg dolloped indecently upon them; and deep-fried monkfish ready to dip in fiery chili jam aioli. It takes a lot of work to look this effortless.
Time Out tip
Sabor is tucked away down Heddon Street, a side street offering an improbable amount of calm from Regent Street. Had a busy day out shopping? Why not swing by the bar to restore your nerves?
Order this
The bombas de chocolate, a trio of pillowy doughnuts glazed in choc and scattered with crushed pistachio, will complete the night.
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