Thai Square

We get the impression that this London-wide chain of upmarket Thai restaurants trades more on its impressive locations than on singular food. Occupying the stunning Putney Bridge building, which stands alone, ship-like, on the water’s edge, this branch is one of the most striking. The downstairs cocktail bar has a clubbish vibe (great when full, a bit bleak on a weeknight), while the upstairs restaurant is minimalist so as not to distract from the uninterrupted view of the Thames. An extensive menu covers all the bases, with a few pan-Asian favourites thrown in for good measure; diners looking for authenticity may be disappointed. The benchmark dish of green curry was passable, yet lacked a certain depth of flavour; a chef’s special, described as thinly sliced chargrilled duck breast with exotic tamarind sauce, arrived instead as a piece of crispy aromatic duck (also on the menu) drowned in a sickly syrup with none of the sour notes of tamarind to cut the richness. We hope the kitchen raises its game, as the high prices warrant more than just a great view.