Please note, this branch of Sophie's has now closed. Time Out Food editors, March 2019.
Never get in a rickshaw. Never attempt to walk down Oxford Street on a Saturday. And never, ever go for a steak anywhere within ten paces of a theatre. There are rules for getting along in the West End, and they’re there for a reason, which is why it’s difficult to approach Sophie’s Steakhouse – a giant restaurant in a prime Covent Garden spot – with anything other than low expectations.
Sure enough, most of what I tried was underwhelming – under-seasoned, uncrisp calamari and king prawns that bore little evidence of the promised garlic and chilli dressing left a lot riding on the main course. Thankfully, Sophie’s hits the mark where it matters. The 10oz ribeye was excellent; charred grill lines on its surface imparting a bitter smokiness to the tender, juicy meat underneath, while the accompanying fries were just right, and ideal for mopping up the bloody aftermath. If only the sides – limp, overcooked broccoli; ridiculously wet creamed spinach – had displayed the same flair.
While Sophie’s certainly doesn’t belong on any Londoner’s hit list, hungry visitors in need of a meaty fix before ‘The Lion King’ could do a lot worse. Just remember to pass on the tricycle-mounted maniacs when you’re heading back to your hotel.