Sodo Pizza Clapton

Sodo started as a pop­up at the E5 Bakehouse before setting up shop just up the road, with success spawning sister sites in Hoxton and Walthamstow. I’ve been to this branch a few times now and only once has it not been heaving with typically hairy east London sorts.

They’re not here for the decor. Describing Sodo as ‘rough around the edges’ would be harsh on rough edges. It’s brightened up no end by Italian staff with accents as thick as bricks – plus there’s a nice little garden out the back – but Sodo’s certainly not a looker. The pizza, of course, is the draw.

Margheritas never have a lot to hide behind and ours here was superb: the Neapolitan­-style sourdough (Sodo, geddit?) base was thin, crisp, delicious, and topped with good­ quality tomato, mozzarella and fresh basil. The ‘winter goat’ was even better, with goat’s cheese, walnuts, caramelised onions and olives scattered liberally but judiciously for a balanced and brilliant combo. Craft beer from the likes of Beavertown and Fourpure keep the beards fluffed.