A new branch of Shoryu will always give ramen lovers something to celebrate. Famous for its creamy tonkotsu pork stock that takes 12 hours to prime, the ramen here is so good, you can almost feel it in your bones.
Nothing’s changed at this, its Covent Garden outpost. The signature ganso tonkotsu is excellent: fulsome, thick and wonderfully meaty, the broth rich with caramelised black garlic, topped with smoky pork belly and a gooey slow-cooked egg. It’s so satisfying that you could ask for an extra bowl, split it between two and have a bargainous light lunch to the tune of £5.50 each. Don’t bother with the sides on the menu – sashimi, tempura, buns – as they’re nothing to write home about. The ramen’s the star here.
As for looks, if you’re expecting the kind of minimalist Japanese interiors that have made Shoryu a hit with both hipsters and hardcore traditionalists, prepare for slight disappointment. This one has come over a bit chain-ish, with suspiciously comfy seats and persistent Muzak. It feels like the kind of place where you could have a nice, civilised lunch with your mother-in-law. But hey, sometimes mothers-in-law need ramen too.