The A board that stands outside Sasuke Ramen’s second branch proclaims ‘the spiciest ramen in London – do you dare?’ in the way Alton Towers might advertise its latest multi-looping rollercoaster. Except our Thursday lunchtime visit was more like a lazy river log ride: service was lacklustre considering we were the second of two dining groups, and we were almost forced to instigate a Mexican wave to get the waitress’s attention. But a £12.50 three-course set menu (plus edamame) is not to be sniffed at.
Starters of karaage chicken and pork gyoza came piping hot, and the tonkotsu ramen’s broth was pleasingly rich with a generous portion of nicely chewy noodles. Both this and the seafood-flavoured shio ramen were topped with a thick slice of char siu (braised pork belly). There was even a scoop of strawberry ice cream for dessert – an odd but welcome finale. Being just off Haymarket and two doors down from enduring ramen kings Kanada-Ya might have something to do with Sasuke’s glum atmosphere. But at least you’ll leave here with a full stomach and not so empty wallet.