Saporitalia’s dining room is dominated by a handsome clay oven, the sight of which is enough to get taste buds tingling. Sure enough, our pizza was first-rate: an enormous wagon-wheel of a thing with a wafer-thin base generously topped with san daniele ham. It’s wise to opt for the pizza here, as you get more for your money; our other dishes were a bit hit-and-miss.
Ravioli was perfectly al dente and had plenty of bite and a pleasantly light sauce, but it could have been mistaken for an appetiser. And a heavy hand had been at the mozzarella in our baked gnocchi, leaving the dish dense and stodgy. Decor is self-consciously rustic, with terracotta tiling and a charmingly cheesy photo mural of an Italian farmhouse on the back wall. As much of the cooking takes place in the dining room, the space can become noisy and stuffy when busy.