Sael is a flashy, brash and extremely glossy production – the Starlight Express of central London brassieres, if you will, with Jason Atherton the sous vide-brandishing Andrew Lloyd Webber of the piece. It marks the celeb chef’s 37th restaurant in two decades, and third London opening in as many months. Of all them, this is the spot that has ‘flagship’ most keenly scrawled all over it.
The concept is, in decor at least, a kind of Britpop take on the nearby French bistro Brasserie Zedel, but with Toulouse-Lautrec prints replaced by Union Jacks, framed pictures of Bryan Ferry and Idris Elba, and a soundtrack provided by Oasis. The overall effect is more Dubai skyscraper than swinging London, and might all be rather cringe, were the cooking not so utterly phenomenal.
Wood-fired and port-roasted figs are wistfully erotic in the way that all the best figs are
Of course, Atherton knows what he’s doing. His Michelin stars and numerous television appearances attest to that. Straight out of the traps, the food is hilariously good. Opening snacks include an imperious Marmite custard tart, a decadent slice of savoury pud with a crispy top and earthy, super umami kick. If you’re feeling flash, you can whack a dollop of caviar on top for an extra fiver, but even without it the depth of flavour is so intense you’ll be dizzy from the bends when you finally come up for air after gleefully scoffing it. Stupidly scrumptious too is a tempura battered rock oyster decorated with a mess of crispy scraps and honking with Sarson’s vinegar. Add to that a hearty and, quite frankly, rather full-on, lamb doner kebab flatbread, and satisfaction is guaranteed.
And that’s all before you even approach the starters which are, somehow, lighter. Wood-fired and port-roasted figs are wistfully erotic in the way that all the best figs are, swirled, pink and winking, into stracciatella and raunchy cobnut hummus. A calamari skewer ‘finished in its own ink’ is enchantingly murky and slippery, though a portion of cold, limp mackerel with BBQ pineapple sauce doesn’t quite offer the same kind of mystique. Better is the ‘100-layer’ snail and ox cheek lasagne, though a quick tally reveals decidedly fewer layers of pasta than promised. It comes too, from a section of the menu branded as ‘mid-plates’, neither small nor large plate-sized, but somewhere in between the two. Starting at £14 (and with the lasagne at £22), it’s evidently a way to make a main course in the swanky environs of St James’s a little more budget-friendly, but whether this is a clever plan or false economy remains to be seen.
What is undeniably good value is the booze, with glasses of wine starting at £6 – cheaper than most pubs in the area – while a three-course prix fixe menu complete with prawn cocktail and pork loin ain’t bad at all.
Sael might not be for everyone, but if you’re in the market for flash, unflappable food – and don’t mind doing it while Kasabian honk out of the speakers – it’s the obvious choice.
The vibe Plush, St James’s big bistro energy with a slightly naff ‘cool Britannia’ theme.
The food Wildly good British seasonal cooking with clever-clever touches from storied chef Jason Atherton.
The drink A mega wine menu with decently priced options and the opportunity to order carafes by the pint.
Time Out tip Do yourself a favour and order the mighty Marmite custard tart.