Royal Dragon (CLOSED)

The extensive menu here offers many of the usual Chinatown favourites – deep-fried shredded beef; deep-fried squid in salt and pepper – and on the whole these are of a good standard. We were less keen on our kung po chicken, despite the tender meat, as it included cashew nuts and a sweet-sour sauce rather than the anticipated peanuts and chillies. More adventurous diners may opt for crab steamed in wine sauce: a generous portion of whole crab that’s heady with the fragrance of Shaoxing wine. Pei pa duck is also delicious, comprising moist, rich meat and crisp lacquered skin. Homesick Chinese students and those in search of comfort food like to order the excellent beef brisket, either in noodle soup or on its own with rice. We loved the tender chunks of slow-cooked beef blanketed in rich, flavourful sauce. The restaurant now only serves dinner, but opens until very late to cater for young Chinese and others with a penchant for karaoke. The singing takes place in private rooms, so diners need not fear any disturbance. Furnishings are mostly dark and low key, making a change from the bright red found in neighbouring restaurants.