Is there a better view of the sunset over the Thames than the one at Rick Stein’s first London venture, in sleepy Barnes? I doubt it. Do ask for a window seat when you book. Either way, the atmosphere here is relaxed and expectant; the clientele mainly grey-haired and well-heeled. Staff range from adept and efficient to young and keen. It all makes for a lovely experience.
A starter of Cornish crab with wakame seaweed and wasabi mayonnaise was a fine primer for what followed – the accompanying bits featuring only a wisp of the accent flavours so as not to overpower the clean, fresh meat. Gremolata prawns, complete with finger bowl, were the first indication that things could get down and dirty. Warmly spiced seafood is a Stein trademark, but if you’re scared off by the menu’s description of the signature Singapore chilli crab as ‘gloriously messy’, then the Indonesian seafood curry is a fine alternative – large slivers of seabass, bite-size chunks of cod and prawns mingling together in Stein’s take on a thick and creamy laksa sauce. A crispy fillet of hake, with a tomato and caper sauce and minted potatoes, was equally fine. Wine-wise, an Australian chardonnay was crisp, light and fruity, and perfectly complemented both the starters and main courses. Puddings were choc-heavy. Skip them and order more starters.
If you’re not local, Barnes can be a bit of a schlep on public transport (top tip: there’s parking in the courtyard after 6pm) – but if you’re after an elegant evening with a view, this is the place.