Racine (CLOSED)

Deep-red velvet curtains around the entrance, a dark interior of mirrors, wood and leather banquettes, and waiters in white shirts and black waistcoats combine at Racine to evoke a very proper Parisian brasserie. It’s a style appreciated by the business lunchers, wealthy locals and tourists who form the core clientele. Chef-owner Henry Harris is British, but has absorbed all the classic French culinary arts, combining them with attentively sourced, mostly British ingredients.

From the prix fixe menu, an onion velouté soup was deliciously sweet, smooth and delicately seasoned, and rabbit terrine had a great depth of punchy flavour. Out of the choice of just two mains, grey mullet with sage, capers and soubise sauce was another winner, full of subtle flavours, but in braised lamb with haricot beans and roast garlic, both meat and garlic were overpowered by an odd excess of mustardy spice.

The set menu is good value, but go beyond a glass of wine and prices shoot up, as the list has scarcely any bottles under £25. Staff are very French, very professional and charming – as they need to be with a service charge at 14.5%.