Prezzo

The Mayfair branch of this pizza chain looks more like an upmarket English pub than an Italian restaurant – all dark panelled wood and moody lighting, with tables thoughtfully spaced for a crowd consisting largely of trysting couples and map-toting tourists. Unfortunately the food isn’t especially Italian either. While the silky mozzarella, tomato and basil starter raised hopes, these quickly sank along with the dough of an undercooked pizza, meagrely topped and light on the love. Pasta was better, and inexpensive, but the dish was delivered to the table with more of a slam than a smile. With a few tweaks, Prezzo could challenge the big boys, but for now this branch has little more than a salubrious setting and low prices to recommend it.