Back in 2020, when office workers abandoned the City to work in their pyjamas in the countryside, the restaurant scene seemed to be on its last legs. It was certainly in no position to be introducing newcomers to the block. Or so we thought. In came Piazza Italiana, in the very midst of the pandemic, to set up shop in the heart of the Square Mile.
The Italian(ish) establishment is set in an impressive venue with a strong private members’ club feel. It’s grandiose, looks great in photographs and is filled with diners perhaps more interested in the deals they can broker in its hallowed halls than in the food itself. The sumptuously decorated room is olde worldly to boot. Once home to the British Linen Bank and now tastefully restored, it’s all gilded cornices, wood panelling, imposing columns and marble finishes.
The menu offers a wide variety of dishes hailing from across Italy and is extensive enough to please even the pickiest eater from your office. Think: pastas, focaccias and carpaccio. The drinks list boasts hundreds of different wines, with many of them available by the glass.
There were some hits and misses, but really everything was good
Note that servings are fairly small, so go ahead and eat the tidily arranged pile of complimentary nibbles they provide at the start – a selection of grissini, focaccia and carasau paired with dips and oils presented in finicky glass vials.
There were some hits and misses, but really everything was good. The hits: its spaghetti carbonara, where the pasta was al dente, the chunks of guanciale were perfectly salty and the cream sauce (instead of traditional Roman egg yolks) wasn’t too creamy. Otherwise, opt for the lamb chop if you prefer a more meaty option; mine was beautifully cooked and served with a crowd-pleasing peppercorn sauce on the side.
The desserts were sadly not up to much. Perhaps I should have chosen the traditional tiramisu, which might have been richer and far more substantial than the forlorn (read: tiny) Amalfi lemon tart that I ended up with and demolished in one fell swoop. Another miss was the beef carpaccio, described as being smothered in a truffle-gorgonzola sauce, yet the wafer-thin strips of meat came floating in a rather bland watery puddle.
All in all, the food here is reassuringly straightforward, great for working lunches and corporate events, with nothing on offer that will distract you from your conversation. Prices are pitched for the corporate credit card as well, as starters already sit in the double digits.
Piazza Italiana is perhaps not, as you might have been able to surmise by now, the spot for a quick bite to eat or a casual family meal out – especially if the family includes kids. But for your next client lunch? Head on over.
The vibe: Set in one of London’s beautiful ex-banking halls, the space has come full circle – once occupied by financiers counting pennies, and nowadays too.
The food: A safe bet for Italian(ish) food set in the heart of the Square Mile.
The drink: Choose from a robust wine list with plenty of options served by the glass, handy for when you need to head back to the office after a client lunch.
Time Out tip: Expect to find folks suited and stilettoed. And to fit in, maybe make sure you are too.