Do you remember the bit in 'Charlie and the Chocolate Factory' where the sugar-loving crew sail down a river of molten chocolate, in a boat that's resplendent in blue and gold? Well there's some of the same OTT storybook-prettiness at Peggy Jean, a freshly-restored Victorian barge moored in Richmond (safely out of sight of wetwipe island) that serves up lavish, Aussie-style brunches and delectable views across the Thames.
This is definitely a book-ahead, press-your-linens type brunch - not the kind of affair you tumble into, hungover and chugging Lucozade like it's the sacred elixir of life. But it's not at all stuffy, either: its Sydney-style menu offers plenty of witty, crowdpleasing touches. The Dirty Daisy paired poached eggs with a crispy pile of tater tots, lent new sophistication by fermented green tomato and avocado salsa, refried beans, and ornamental little slices of pink pickled onion - a dish that quickly descended into a chaotic, delicious goo of molten egg yolk. Sweetcorn fritters were light and juicy, ready to be drenched in lime and chili for a wake-you-up zing of flavour. And the sweet options were straight out of Willy Wonka's wildest imaginings. Golden Gaytime ice creams are a comically-named Aussie childhood favourite, coated in chocolate and biscuit crumbs. The luxe Golden Gaytime Pancakes we were served riffed on that theme with almost overwhelmingly carb-heavy glee: a mammoth stack was decked with chocolate ganache, clouds of whipped mascarpone, and ingots of malt crumble.
Naturally for an Aussie joint, Peggy Jean makes a mean flat white. But our meal was soundtracked with the explosive pops of Prosecco corks from neighbouring tables, like we were locked in history's bougiest naval battle. And why not crack out the fizz? This feels like a lovely place for a treat: birthdays with the girlies, or the start of a Richmond day out that showcases London's prettier side to out-of-town friends.
By day, you can spot dogs diving into the water, sending droplets and unfortunate ducks scattering. At night, the sunset kicks in, its golden hues echoed in pizzas, cooked in two pastel-tiled ovens on the barge's deck. Most of Peggy Jean's seating is outdoors, making this very much summertime proposition - hopefully the handful of tables inside will sustain it through chillier months.
Its owners Prue Freeman and Tom Onions already own a formidable array of restaurants and cafes (Beany Green, Bondi Green, Timmy Green, as well as Paddington Basin barges Darcie and May), suggesting that they're expert at knowing what brunch-going Londoners want. This beautiful barge feels like a welcome addition to the family. There's nothing remotely cutting edge about the pastel paradise it sells, but it's one you won't regret visiting for a rosy hour or two.
The vibe Oh-so-pretty dining on a lovingly restored barge in Richmond.
The food Sydney-style brunches by day, pizzas in the evening.
The drink Coffees, cocktails, fizz, craft beer: choose your own adventure.
Time Out tip Don't despair if you can't book a table a week out. Peggy Jean makes more capacity available 48 hours ahead, once it's confirmed a dry forecast.