The trouble with our visit to the new Patty & Bun branch in Soho is that we know that these burger boys are capable of true greatness. In their first Marylebone branch, the meat between buns gave us palpitations. So imagine the disappointment of overcooked patties arriving at our Soho table, despite assurances from the staff that the burgers would be served medium-rare. A colourful slaw had clearly been prepped some time before service, with a bit of seepage for us to contend with. And fries weren’t as crispy and light as we’d have liked, although they did come with an awesomely indulgent chicken salt mayo.
Still, a visit here isn’t just about the food – they could almost rename it ‘Party & Bun’. Large tables and booths are filled with loud revellers competing with just-as-loud garage music. Waiting staff flirt like it’s part of the job description, even joining some tables for a stint. We were well up for the P&B treatment, but as a twosome we found ourselves a tad forgotten at a table near-buried under a bulging coat rack.
Luckily, fun times are reinforced by a wicked little cocktail menu, with mixed drinks aiding the mingling. I tried a Stockpot Sour (taking its name from the famous Soho caff this burger joint replaces, RIP), a perfectly lively accompaniment to cut through greasy fare. And, patty aside, at least the composition of those burgers can’t be faulted – the Ari Gold is still one of the London greats.
Since our visit, we’ve been assured that owner Joe is stepping back into the kitchen while things level out. If they put as much effort into the food as they do the flirting, we’re all in for one hell of a treat.