Palmers

Run by a Czech father and his two sons – one in the kitchen bringing French panache to a contemporary Eurovision menu, his younger brother a friendly and efficient presence in the dining room – this is a great neighbourhood restaurant. But the corner site, part of an unprepossessing new-build block, and the could-be-anywhere interior with arty photos of food doesn’t give away how special it is. Crunchy, lemony falafel on beets, radish and cucumber with mint leaves and coriander and a sour cream dressing made a refreshing starter, with zesty flavours as much Eastern European as Middle Eastern; perfectly cooked scallops were matched with celeriac remoulade perked up with little capers and micro leaves. Carnivores can have steaks and, less predictably, rabbit instead of chicken. An extremely generous serving of monkfish and parma ham with asparagus (just in season) was raised to classical heights with a hollandaise-type sauce. The dashing veggie option was open ravioli of silky sheets of pasta with squash, courgette ribbons and tomato sauce. For an extra outlay, hand-cut chips are undoubtedly the finest fries on the Roman Road. Chocolate melting pudding smartly matched with berries was the business. Only the wine list is a weakness, but like the food it’s fantastic value. Palmers would be an asset in any area; in E2, it’s exceptional.