This mini-chain, formerly known as Pizza Paradiso, may have expanded from being a one-off Soho stalwart to a three-restaurant chain, but it still has enough individuality and charm to knock the socks off most of its chain rivals.
This small Southwark branch has the atmosphere of a traditional Italian trattoria (buzzy, with tightly packed tables and slightly frazzled staff), yet it’s the food that’s really authentic. Appealing seafood and meat mains prove there’s more to cheap Italian fare than pizza and pasta – though these are memorable too, with options going beyond (but including) the reliable favourites. Every neighbourhood should have one.