Review

Old Chang Kee

3 out of 5 stars
A Singaporean street- food joint in Covent Garden.
  • Restaurants | Singaporean
  • price 1 of 4
  • Covent Garden
  • Recommended
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Time Out says

A light and bright Covent Garden outpost of the Singaporean snack chain, this place is famed for its curry puffs – big pastries with curried fillings, kind of like warmly spiced Cornish pasties. There’s also a short menu of noodles and soups served in cardboard bowls. Inside, it’s bright yellow and cheerful, but the vibe is grab-and-go, with just a sprinkling of seats.

Confirmed: the curry puffs are a delight. Lined up in the kind of glass counter you’d find in an old-school bakery, they have supremely buttery pastry and a range of fillings. Our favourite was the signature curried chicken with potato – tender meat and hearty chunks of potato, coated in imported spices. The chicken and mushroom was also excellent, and the veggie curried potato didn’t disappoint either. All puffs are two for £5 (or somewhere around £2.80 each, depending on fillings): great value given their size and quality.

Some of the other Singaporean dishes were decent, like the fish balls, or nasi lemak with curried chicken, but give the laksa a swerve: it was very ordinary, lacking the complexity it deserves. In short, stick with the curry puffs. They’re celebrated for a reason.

Details

Address
15a New Row
London
WC2N 4PD
Transport:
Tube: Leicester Square
Price:
Lunch for two with drinks: around £30.
Opening hours:
Sun-Mon: 11am-8pm Tues-Sat: 11am-9pm
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