Been yomping around the National Gallery and not quite up to the swankiness of Richard Corrigan’s Portrait? Cue Ochre, its younger, more relaxed cousin. The National Gallery’s tranquil in-house brasserie serves up modern English fare alongside an impressive array of art-inspired cocktails; a rare oasis of calm in the heart of hectic central London.
Nestled in the William Wilkins building (the one with the whopping great big columns out front), Ochre benefits from the footfall of both gallery goers and theatre attendees. However, the restaurant resists the temptation to rest on the laurels of prime location and a captive audience. Instead, Ochre stands firmly on its own merits, with tasteful interiors and a creatively curated menu that riffs on adjacent artworks without milking it for clout.
A rare oasis of calm in the heart of hectic central London
Let’s talk about those interiors. Everything radiates a warm light, and zig-zag booths run parallel to a grand marble bar while cane-backed chairs inject an appropriately contemporary touch into the early 19th century space. When it comes to music, there’s an eclectic mix of light jazz, 1950s chanson, and homegrown R&B.
The menu is fairly predictable, but can be forgiven for leaning on the familiar. Amongst the ‘Ochre cheeseburger’ and ‘Ochre caesar salad’ are flashes of real originality, such as an attractively plated burrata, served with fennel and orange - very Bubala. The usual suspects of brasserie dining are well executed, with an honourable mention to the particularly moreish cider and leek sauce that lustily accompanies Cornish mussels.
Dessert is modest but still packs a punch. The cherry pavlova features a fragile meringue, topped with a tart cherry compote singing in harmony with sweet vanilla cream. The Baron Bigod is not to be missed - a deliciously honking blob of English brie doused in truffle honey that’s happy to melt over crackers or slices of pear alike.
Ochre also doesn’t disappoint on its brasserie/cocktail bar claim. A welcome escape from the bustle of Trafalgar Square, the mustard-toned bar makes an excellent spot for an aperitif. With some enticing nonny options (a 0% Pentire Coastal Spritz and Botivo and Tonic), as well as a boozy Bees Knees with English sparkling wine, honey liqueur and a splash of lemon, there’s certainly plenty of choice.
The Signatures offer a classy nod to Ochre’s famous neighbours, and feature five cocktails inspired by Van Gogh. Sunflowers is an earthy Mezcal number, while Red Vineyards makes for a lighter option, championing English brandy, and offset by tart bramley apple.
A triumphant reimagining of casual gallery dining, Ochre successfully pays homage to its surroundings.
The vibe It’s Van Gogh’s Sunflowers personified, with ochre hued everything and a relaxed atmosphere.
The food An all-day brasserie menu, complete with the usual suspects of modern English dining.
The drink An extensive, inventive cocktail list, plenty of beers, wines and spirits plus a selection of loose leaf teas.
Time Out tip Ochre offers a ‘pre-theatre subscription’, which means four lots of three-course dinners for £119 (so just under 30 quid per meal) to be taken within three months.