Naamyaa Café (CLOSED)

When this collaboration between prolific restaurateur Alan Yau and chef and Thai food expert David Thompson opened in 2012, it felt like an exciting new concept. The dishes were authentically fiery and complex, while the decor was an eclectic blend of contemporary design and South-east Asian bling. Now that it has bedded in, Naamyaa sits more comfortably next to its chain-restaurant neighbours. The furnishings are as striking as ever – check out the hoard of miniature golden Buddhas as you enter the dining room – but the dishes have been tempered for the western customers. A special of whole sea bream in penang curry sauce, though perfectly nice, lacked excitement. Generous slabs of tender beef rib were more successful, though there was only a whisper of the promised jasmine tea-smoked flavour. Set meals are good value, coming with thin rice noodles, sweet-pickled morning glory, soft-boiled egg and a choice of curries (wild ginger and prawn, or minced pork and cherry tomato, perhaps), plus a side of clear chicken soup. Burgers are on hand for anyone who doesn’t like spice. Some of its edge might have been lost, but friendly staff help make Naamyaa an enjoyable hangout for a meal with friends.