Mother Mash

It’s a simple set-up at this charming café where the spud is king: choose your preferred style (and texture) of mash, add a couple of meaty sausages or a pie, then select a gravy flavour. The mash, which ranges from a pokey mustard-and-cheese-laden version to traditional colcannon dotted with bright spring cabbage, was heavy and overwhipped, but satisfyingly rib-sticking, while pies were well proportioned, with golden hot-water-crust pastry that held together well. What stops Mother Mash entering ‘ye olde mash shop’ territory is friendly service and an attractive modern dining room, with plenty of daylight, white subway tiles and marble tabletops. However, pinched seating is a squeeze for couch potatoes.