Please note, Mark's at Fenwick of Bond St is now closed. Time Out Food & Drink Editors, November 2016.
The doors have closed at Mark Hix’s restaurant in Selfridges, but hungry shoppers can breathe a sigh of relief – because the hugely popular restaurateur has a new residency at Fenwick. You’ll need to walk through the second-floor womenswear section to find it, but once inside, you can almost forget that you’re dining in a department store, thanks to a well designed layout that shields you from the shop floor. The white decor is simple and elegant, the staff are attentive but not overbearing, and soft jazz tinkles through the speakers. This is definitely ladies-who-lunch territory.
With that in mind, I opted for the lobster salad, a surprisingly generous dish served with salty cubes of bacon, sea kale and a balsamic vinaigrette. The menu is fairly seafood-heavy, but for something meatier, try the rump of lamb which was on the right side of pink and accompanied by a smoky aubergine salad. The highlight was a starter of ‘brik a l’oeuf de canard’: a fried duck egg in a Tunisian pastry, which was crispy, runny-yolked and served with a fiery harissa.
The restaurant’s opening hours are the same as the department store’s so, lady or not, going for lunch is probably your best bet. That said, diners are catered for throughout the day with breakfast dishes, afternoon tea and ‘snax’ all priced at £3.50 – aside from a baked potato topped with caviar which will set you back a cool £30. Sure, it might be the most expensive spud in London, but then, this is Bond Street, darling.