Long before I first stepped inside Malaysian Deli, I'd admired the gorgeous mural of a rising sun on its shutters on the long nightbus home, prematurely brightening the gloomy Brockley streets like a drinker's false dawn. Luckily, the food within is just as cheering, served up with sunny, café-style unpretentiousness.
The culinary wizards behind Euston's Roti King have made Malaysia's cuisine (in London, anyway) basically synonymous with roti canai, and yeah, who doesn't like messily dunking hanks of delicately flaky bread into an unctuous pot of stew. But you'd be nuts to visit Malaysian Deli just for its roti canai, although on my visit it was perfectly respectable, if a little stodgily undercooked. Instead, the pick of the starters is the cucur bawang (onion fritters): a gorgeously light, golden upgrade on the chip shop onion ring, served with the kind of addictively delicious peanut sauce I could eat by the bowlful.
The main courses were almost as satisfying, as well as generously portioned for the affordable prices. The mamak mee goreng was a comforting plate of fried noodles singing with Indian spices, while the nasi kerabu featured delicate blue flower-flavoured rice and richly seasoned tofu adorned with an enticing array of accompaniments, including salted egg and crackers.
This cooking is hearty rather than elaborate, without the bold flavours of Peckham's Mambow (another South London Malaysian spot). But there are still so many reasons why Malaysian Deli is teeming every night of the week. The ever-smiling owners are lovely, it's BYOB (for £2 corkage), and there's a wide range of veggie and vegan options. More importantly still, even though the aesthetic is firmly no-frills, something about the relaxed, softly-lit ambience encourages you to linger and order just one more dish. It's the kind of place that every neighbourhood deserves, and Brockley locals rightly treasure it.
The vibe Much-loved neighbourhood Malaysian eatery.
The food Rendang, sambal, chicken satay... you'll find all the Malaysian classics here.
The drink BYOB, or stick to the comforting ginger milk tea.
Time Out tip Bring tupperware for the inevitable leftovers and your future self will love you for it.