Previously members only, this steakhouse at The Ned is now officially open to the public – but it still feels exclusive. It’s set in a room at the far end of the ground floor’s cavernous ex-banking hall, which on the night of my visit was Gatsby-esque: spilling-over bars and restaurants, shrieks of laughter, sloshing glasses held high, arms around shoulders and, at one end, a live band on a circular podium.
Lutyens Grill used to be the bank manager’s office; it was almost surreal how serene it became once the door closed. It has the feel of an upmarket New York steakhouse – all wood, glass and white tablecloths – while imperceptible staff patrol placidly, refreshing glasses with the swift and gentle hand movements of magicians.
And the food? For starters, Orkney scallops (£15) were perfectly cooked while shrimp cocktail (£16) was chock-full of meatiness and came lightly coated in a Marie Rose sauce with just the faintest hint of horseradish. The top-quality steak is the reason to come, but prices are high: rump for £28, sirloin £36, fillet £42, rib-eye £45 … and you don’t even want to know about the Japanese wagyu. Sauces are gratis; the chimichurri was advertised as ‘very spicy’ but turned up without a trace of heat. No matter, the Bordelaise was so distractingly deep, rich and meaty it was impossible to leave alone.
Bottles of wine start at £34, but again, you guessed it, you can easily get something for a hundred times that amount too. The bill will tell you that you’ve been overly decadent no matter what, but you can’t say you weren’t warned when you walked in.