The central London branch of this Mexican mini-chain has a mind-bogglingly massive menu. Any Latin American delight you can imagine, they’ve got it. Plus about 25 others that are, frankly, a bit bizarre – like, chicken Milanese in a Mexican bun. With pickled onions.
Everything’s fairly basic, but there are a few lovely dishes: a crispy crab tostada had a nice hit of cayenne, the fish itself much like the filling in a pub crab mayo sandwich, but in a cosy way. ‘Chicken tinga’ quesadillas, too, were satisfyingly grainy little pockets of hot, sour meat, drizzled with cheese. Best of all, really, was a simple bowl of tortilla chips, which were golden brown and brilliantly savoury.
But there were also some real let-downs. Like the guacamole, which had clearly been made much earlier and was distinctly past its best. If you must order guac here, get the larger bowl, which they mix fresh at your table – but probably best to steer clear altogether. There were also some offensively bland refried beans, and a messy, dull plate of enchiladas.
Lupita does offer an express lunch menu for £9.95: order carefully and you might just have a good time. Though don’t get your hopes up.