Run by husband-and-team Biju and Preeti Gopinath, this hub for London’s Malayali community has been plating classic Kerala comfort food and festive feasts (such as a 30-course vegetarian spread for the harvest festival of Onam) for over a decade. Each dish is prepared lovingly by Preeti, and given its unique flavour by spice blends crafted in-house. Standouts are the fish moilley, a creamy coconut curry where kingfish is simmered with fresh tomato, adding a tangy lightness to the broth. Try it with spongy appam to soak up all the flavourful gravy. Mussel fry is also excellent; mussels are dry-roasted with a mix of black pepper and fennel, coating them with a glorious golden crust. Netholi fry, small anchovies battered and fried, is a wonderful south Indian alternative to crispy whitebait and a perfect snack with cold beer.
Time Out tip Call in advance and order the para pollichathu to share with a group. This stunning dish consists of a whole fish, slathered in spicy marinade and baked in a banana leaf until it falls apart in pearly white, succulent flakes.