On the face of it, Portobello’s neat, proper Holy Carrot and Dalston’s fire-worshipping feast ACME Fire Cult share little common ground. ACME is roaring and showy, as much a swaggering religion as a restaurant; Carrot is prim as a perfume shop, soft clay surroundings fronting a menu that is plant-forward, ‘root to peel’ and sustainable.
But there’s a clear link between the two – namely Daniel Watkins. The ex-ACME founder is now executive chef at the first permanent home of Holy Carrot (previously known for its supper clubs and Knightsbridge residency), and brings his ‘fire and ferment’ ethos across the capital from one neighbourhood of cool to another.
More than just Holy Carrot’s first proper restaurant, it’s also a Watkins-helmed reboot – and it has plenty of his signature punch. From the off, the pre-starter ‘snacks’ offer a studied but unshowy sort of tastiness. Pillowy insides dramatically burst out of crisp ‘honey’ drenched Jerusalem artichokes; one couldn’t help but mop up the warming chilli ragu with ultralight koji bread. Two cold ‘smalls’ followed suit, both intricately flavoured: each mouthful of the smoked beetroot breathing freshness, each spoonful of the stracciatella with persimmon and bitter leaves with deftly measured amount of creamy tang and gentle crunch.
This is innovation of a dependable, not reckless, sort
Imprinted upon my memory the most, however, was one of Holy Carrot’s ‘larges’: the crispy celeriac with pickle butter. I know what you’re thinking – celeriac… pleasant? Holy Carrot’s is revelatory. Battered and crisped with a meticulously weighted crunch, its toppings flashed around my mouth with tomato and coriander, pickles and ferments and herbs galore. Holy Carrot isn’t out to blow your mind – this is innovation of a dependable, not reckless, sort – but this gets close.
If Holy Carrot’s food is a polished, exemplar plant-based cuisine, the setting feels a shopfront to show it off. Designed by Al-Jawad Pike (known for slickly chic stores for the likes of Aesop and Burberry) and decked out with a range of bespoke ceramics, the corner unit on Portobello was envisioned by owner Irina Linovich, previously a producer of Vogue Ukraine. It’s a visually pleasing, altogether pleasant place to eat, like being transported to a grey-hued Santorini.
While tidily inventive and admirably distinct, Holy Carrot’s dishes aren’t always spectacular. There’s not a sense of constant wonder. The grilled onion pumpkin struggled to compete with other dishes’ dynamic flavours, offering weight without reward. As much as desserts picked up – gloopy chocolate tahini ‘mousse’, texturally explorative amazake rice pudding, delicately sweet savarin – this isn’t quite an all-star show.
Holy Carrot comes loaded with buzzwords and trendy things. The cocktails even come courtesy of Hackney’s uber cool A Bar With Shapes For a Name. But it’s far above empty hype. We – you, me, society – are way beyond remarking that plant-based food can go head-to-head with meaty stuff, and while Watkins says Holy Carrot is battling that stigma, its food feels comfortably worthy of equal respect.
The vibe Friendly, interesting and very stylish.
The food Refined and adventurous, but not show-offy veg-forward cuisine.
The drink Biodynamic wines, 🔶🟥🔵 cocktails… you’ll be hard pressed to find trendier bevs.
Time Out tip Ask about the ferments – Watkins’ collection of fermented stuff isn’t just tasty, it’s genuinely fascinating