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[title]When you hear the word ‘Lagos’, one of two places will probably spring to mind: the Lagos we’re heading to is one of the world’s most populous cities, situated in West Africa. More than 16 million people live there. It’s a city in a country, Nigeria, that has birthed some of the most influential musicians, fashion icons and entrepreneurs in the world.
Even hearing ‘Lagos’ plucks on my heartstrings. The airport code ‘LOS’, brings back so much nostalgia: I’ve travelled to more than 55 countries, and my home country of heritage, Nigeria, is the most visited.
I’ve spent many holidays there while growing up, which turned into several months due to the global pandemic, and then many more months (this time, by choice). I was awestruck with the beautiful chaos that exists in Lagos: the drive and zeal of people that hustle like no tomorrow, the electric nightlife, the breathtaking dining experiences and the gorgeous weather.
For others with a similar background to me, but don’t get the opportunity to go back as often, the blissful realisation that you can eat and enjoy a slice of home from thousands of miles away can make us feel that little closer to our motherlands. In London, Lolak Afrique is that place: it creates a sense of belonging and safety for the diaspora. Moments away from Rye Lane, it takes me back to the skinny streets within several Lagos suburbs, the shop owner proudly greeting restaurant goers in Yoruba. It’s a representation of the increasingly growing number of Nigerians living in London.
On a summery bright sky evening, I set off on a lengthy train journey away from east London to Peckham, a part of the city sometimes referred to as ‘Little Lagos’ due to the significant Nigerian community living there, particularly from the Yoruba ethnic group. It boasts several Nigerian-owned businesses, restaurants, cultural events, and meetups, and stepping into a store there and speaking Pidgin (broken English) or Yoruba can earn you serious brownie points.
You’ll find Lolak Afrique only a few minutes walk away from the station. Having opened in 1996, it’s one of Peckham’s longest standing Nigerian restaurants. Halima, widely known as Mama Lolak, is the proud owner, serving popular Nigerian dishes with the help of her family.
‘Where I come from, Nigeria, our meals are just so delicious,’ says Adekunle, operations manager at Lolak Afrique. ‘A very popular one is Abula. We serve it here everyday and people just love it. Being able to serve that to anyone who walks through the door just shows the influence behind these meals. They get to experience Nigeria here in London.’
Abula is a mixture of three different stews. First, there’s gbegiri, made from brown beans, crayfish, palm oil, locust beans, and salt and pepper. The second stew is ewedu, made from jute leaves with added seasonings, cooked in just under fifteen minutes. The third and final stew is a red pepper dish made with a meat of your choice. It’s all served with the staple ‘swallow’ dish, amala: brown and maze-like, made from pure yam flour.
Lolak Afrique has now been serving up meals for nearly 30 years. ‘Starting the restaurant 1996, when many of us Nigerians found a home in London, was such an ambitious experience,’ says Mama Lolak. ‘I am still learning every day, and I am so thankful for the community, and people coming far and wide across London, to come and taste our food. I never take those moments for granted.’
Mama Lolak raised her children in south London, with many of them, and their grandchildren, spending time happily serving and greeting customers in the restaurant everyday of the week. ‘When we started, we were a hole in the wall,’ she says. ‘It was through word of mouth that people first learned of us serving filling and affordable Nigerian cuisine. That was so important for them to know, and that our food is authentic cuisine too.’
Starting any business comes with several challenges, but community efforts and support is what encouraged Mama Lolak to keep those doors open. ‘South London is home to the Nigerian community which I proudly come from, but so many other cultures live here too, and a lot of them have embraced our food from the beginning too,’ she says. ‘It was amazing to experience the joy on their faces, and how some flavours reminded them of their own country’s foods. Nigerian cuisine can be home to anybody, any dietary requirement; we can cater to you.’
It’s always fascinating to see how the Nigerian community has enriched Peckham. On my visit, I was able to try all of my favourite dishes: abula, with the oozing flavours and spicy stew, asun, peppered goat meat and tender onions, jollof rice, a seasoned tomato and pepper based rice dish, and an assortment of different meats, with the final, vital accompaniment of sweet and tender plantain. The rich, generous servings were enough for the following day’s packed lunch.
Hundreds of thousands of Nigerians live in London, passing forward their culture, language and traditions – the dining experience being a vital part of this. It’s always an exciting time to be a Nigerian, a country that welcomes all, with food being the first hello.