Please note, Les Trois Garcons has now closed. Time Out Food Editors, January 2019.
London’s most extravagant restaurant interior gives the eye no idea where to settle. Inside this former pub is an entire zoo of stuffed, ceramic and other animals (a lion, a swordfish, an antelope with a tiara…), cascading glass, dangling handbags, giant, unearthly purple flowers and more – all to sustain the mood of ironic, decadent opulence. As a restaurant, Les Trois Garçons has two sides. It buzzes at night, when hip crowds come to enjoy inventive modern French cuisine at lofty prices. But, it also offers a set lunch menu, with similarly refined cooking at far lower cost – an exceptional deal, though one that attracts far fewer people (so much so that the management may drop it, so catch it while you can).
A neat amuse bouche (not common in set menus) of horseradish cream on a beetroot chip was followed by a deliciously herby truffle and salt-cod brandade. Succulent beef rump in red wine jus on amaranthus leaves kept up the standard, and the trio of sorbets to finish – champagne, melon, lemon – was chilly perfection. Wines are suitably sophisticated, and service professional and charming. The 3G mini-empire also includes the equally louche Loungelover Bar next door and, most recently, Maison Trois Garçons ‘lifestyle café’ in nearby Redchurch Street.