Please note, Kentish Canteen is now closed. Time Out Food editors.
A spacious spot, the Canteen has big picture windows, a Kentish Town-themed mural on one wall and brasserie-style seating covered in faux-leather. The menu leaps around a bit, from dips and fish and chips to ambitious-sounding mains (braised beef cheeks with polenta and thyme jus), to pub-grub fare such as spicy buffalo chicken wings with blue cheese dip.
To start, ‘salt ’n’ pepper squid’ had a softly spicy coating and chilli jam added a pleasant edge; pumpkin ravioli was pleasantly smooth and well cooked. But a main of poached bream and saffron bisque was a serious misfire: everything was almost taste-free – the lacklustre fish sat in a heavy, bland bisque (despite chilli flakes) with mushy prawns and mussels. It was served with ‘croutons’ that were actually slices of fried baguette. A less ambitious dish, steak frites, was OK. Brunch and lunchmight be a safer bet, when burgers, egg dishes and baked goods are joined by a selection of salads which many regulars regard as the best things on the menu. They're often displayed on the front counter along with a selection of baked goods which are uniformly good.
In its favour, we liked the fact that the Canteen attracts a mixed bag of diners (families, couples, work groups) for everything from drinks to a full meal. A useful place if you live locally, with friendly staff adding to the appeal.